3,500 Miles and 3 National Parks!
In September Kristin and I embarked on an 18-day motorcycle tour that included three national parks: Teton, Yellowstone, and Glacier. All toll, we rode over 3,500 miles, with just 3 non-riding days, and except for about 300 miles of freeway, we rode all smaller highways and back-roads.
On day three, we were 45 minutes east of Fallon Nevada on highway 50, dubbed the Loneliest Highway in America, and I knew we were into something wonderful. At that point it was raining, 40 degrees, with the wind blowing hard enough across our bikes and helmets that we had to tilt our bikes against the wind as we rode, just to stay upright. We were cold, and our bodies rejoiced when we pulled into Middlegate Station, a former Pony Express station and stage coach stop.
There we warmed up and enjoyed the historical station that looks almost the same as it did in the 1860’s minus the gas pump. It was only our third day, and we had 15 more to go. Over the next two weeks we would ride smaller byways and lesser known roads that took us to Sun Valley Idaho, Jackson Hole, The Grand Teton National Park, Yellowstone National Park, Cody Wyoming and the Buffalo Bill Museum, Chief Joseph Hwy, Beartooth Highway, Red Lodge, Bozeman and Helena Montana, Glacier National Park and The Going To The Sun Road, Lolo Pass and Wilderness Hwy 12 in Idaho, Hells Canyon Snake River, the John Day River in Oregon, and the Cascades Lakes Scenic byway on our way home to Medford Oregon. All toll, we rode 15 out of 18 days.
Of course the highlights of the trips were the national parks. Teton, Yellowstone, and Glacier are all
three so distinct and unique. The Tetons are a utterly a sight to behold, with such jagged peaks, one after the other, rising up out of the earth, hemmed in by the Snake River and Jenny Lake. An extra day next time would be nice to explore and take in further this wonder of God’s creation.
Yellowstone in comparison feels somewhat tame, yet offers this enormous wilderness, both thick with trees and some of the most serene grasslands you’ll ever see. As we toured the lower circle of the park, we took in thermal geysers such as Old Faithful, saw a herd of 60 bison roaming free on a slope of golden brown grass, and could scarcely believe our eyes at the colors and canyons of Upper and Lower Falls. This was one of our non-riding days, as we chose to leave the bikes at the lakeside hotel and bought tickets for the Circle of Fire Tour. Reserve your tickets in advance, and lodging also, at least 6-9 months in advance if you want to stay in the park itself.
Further north, Glacier National Park is a must see, and make sure you ride The Going To The Sun road 
over Logan’s Pass. We spent 2 days in Glacier, and on the second day we stopped at Logan’s Pass for a couple hours to eat lunch and hike the Hidden Lakes Trail, which is very popular but worth the time. Glacier is absolutely stunning to say the least, and one could spend several days or more hiking or packing, but even just driving over Logan’s Pass is bucket list if you’re remotely close to the area. I recommend riding east to west, and count on at least 2-3 hours minimum for the 54 mile road as the speed limit is only 25-45, and you’ll be pulling over to stop and take photos every ten minutes. The road is closed except for July to October, and the crowds lessen after Labor Day, but be prepared with gear for cold and rain, anytime.
The other highlight, while not a national park, was riding out of Cody Wyoming (definitely check out the Buffalo Bill Western Museum and Old Trail Town) up Chief Joseph Highway and connecting onto Beartooth Highway, taking that east to Red Lodge Montana. Both of these roads are lesser known, but might just be the best motorcycle roads in our entire country. The mountain passes and canyons are 
breathtaking, making you feel you are on top of the world. In fact, make sure to stop at the only stop, On Top Of The World, a tiny store with drinks and snacks (and usually fuel, but not on our day, so fill up before you depart). The store is owned by a super nice couple, and I was even successful at the rope and ring challenge game that hangs from a tree near the picnic benches.
One other lesser known gem is Highway 12 through the heart of Idaho’s wilderness. This route takes you over Lolo Pass, part of the Lewis and Clark route, from Lolo Montana to Lewiston Idaho, and is spectacular both in scenery and in the sweeping curves, offering riders bliss and joy for two hours. We stopped at Lolo Hot Springs and soaked in the 106 degree mineral pool. It doesn’t look fancy, but it was a great 30 minute soak back and forth from the hot spring pool, to the slightly less-hot outdoor spring pool. There is also only one gas stop on this highway, at Lochsa Lodge, not too far west of Lolo Pass visitor’s center. This is a tucked away gem offering a beautiful log lodge for dining and lodging for the night, including options in several very small log cabins as well. Beware if you go around the two week window of the Sturgis Rally, as they can get hundreds of bikes each day venturing across Hwy 12, so lodging may be full, and you may need to wait behind dozens of bikes using the single pump.
One other stop to note: If your ever find yourself on Hwy 89 passing through Dupuyer Montana (don’t blink, it’s small) take time to stop in at Buffalo Joe’s for one of the best root beer floats you’ll find anywhere. 
As I think back and reflect I can’t encourage riders enough to consider at least once in your life doing a longer trip. About 5 or 6 days into the trip we realized we were starting to lose track of what day it was and letting go of all the normal stresses and responsibilities that are ever pressing in our daily life back home. While a 2-3 day trip may give you a glimpse, I found that between days 6-14 I was completely removed from everything else going on in the world and was just immersed in the moment of the journey itself. It was a rhythm we had found: waking and packing and getting on the road, each day a spectacular route to ride, with landscape worthy of a sonnet, and interesting people to meet along the way. Such a trip allows the mind and heart to think and feel, helping me when I am back home to have a better perspective on life and what is important.
Word to the wise: If you can, at least once in your life, take a ride for at least 10 days across roads and countryside you’ve never seen before. You’ll be glad you did.
